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Mogadishu, Somalia
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Mogadishu, Somalia

Somalia was also on my list of countries to do on “The Dream Assignment” I mentioned in Antananarivo.

 I was with my assistant, Gabe Urbina. Somalia was, to say the least, a bit troublesome. We had come from a few other African countries to Mogadishu, the major city in Somalia, with little money. No worries, I’ll cash a check with the banker who was my contact there.

When we arrived, we spent the first five hours trying to find a hotel. The first one at which we had a reservation said they didn’t. Our taxi driver took us around town and found nothing. I tell the driver to go back to the first hotel. We get there and to the manager's annoyance, I explained to him that we were going to sleep in the lobby.

He says, “You can’t!”

I say, “What choice do I have? I’m not going to sleep in the street. If you have a problem with that, call the police. We’ll sleep in jail.”

He says, “Oh, believe me, you don’t want to go to a Somalian Jail.”

Then the cavalry moved in. A Swedish journalist staying at the hotel, overhearing our exchange, says to the manager, “I’ve got a big room, they can stay with me.”

God bless him!

And that’s the way it went. My banker contact, when I saw him, was of no use whatsoever.  He wouldn't even cash my check.

By the way, the reason for the crowded hotels and the general trouble we had was because we had arrived on October 17th - the anniversary of the Bolshevik Revolution that brought communism to Russia. Somalian’s were at that point in history aligned with and favored the U.S.S.R.

Americans, not so much.

I had come to a country where it was not all smiles and hellos. You know you’ve got troubles when no one returns your smile. Plus, we kept getting arrested by groups of people who would insist on escorting us to police stations because we were taking pictures.

I had written permission to take pictures but my assistant Gabe would not show it to them.

Why, Gabe?! Why!?

And in broken English (he’s from Honduras) he would very patiently explain to me (these are not his exact words) that this was a mob, and if he showed it to them, they would take it and destroy it.

When we get to the police station, Gabe refuses to go in. He explains very firmly his job is to stay with the equipment.

I get the letter before I go inside and I show it to the officers. They politely hand it back and tell me, basically that they don’t care, I’ve done a very bad thing and I've tried to insult Somalia with photographs.

Now, I rarely go completely nuts on anybody. I started screaming at this guy something to the effect that I did not travel halfway around the fucking world, to piss off your country.

As I’m doing this I am picturing the whole scene in my head from the height of the ceiling, a birds-eye view of the maniac screaming, in a language the cop doesn't know, at the only person who could help him, and my out of body spirit says to me, “Good work asshole! You’re are going to get to sleep in a Somalian Jail.”

When I finished sputtering, the guy looks at me with a poker face, no smile, no disapproval and says, “It’s okay, you can go now.”

To this day I have no idea what happened.

The rest of the time was a lot better. Most of the people we came in contact with were not hostile, and some even friendly.

You’ll see all this in the images. At least I hope so.

 Oh yeah, we saved our pennies. We ate pasta every day. (Italy was the colonial power in Somalia and did some really terrible things, but they did leave a great tradition of pasta.)

* Fair warning: If you're thinking of going to Somalia, don't. US State Department advises against travel in Somalia at the current time, "due to crime, terrorism, and piracy."

Children at Xamar Wein, Somalia
Children at Xamar Wein, Somalia
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Boy Carrying Sheep, Somalia
Boy Carrying Sheep, Somalia
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Man Carrying Bed, Somalia
Man Carrying Bed, Somalia
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Man in Small Window with Shadow, Somalia
Man in Small Window with Shadow, Somalia
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Young Woman Staring at Camera, Somalia
Young Woman Staring at Camera, Somalia
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People Walking Against White Wall, Somalia
People Walking Against White Wall, Somalia
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Woman in Crowd, Hand to Face, Somalia
Woman in Crowd, Hand to Face, Somalia
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Crowd, Woman Smiling, Boy Hand Up, Somalia
Crowd, Woman Smiling, Boy Hand Up, Somalia
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Young Boy in Green Against Pinkish Wall, Somalia
Young Boy in Green Against Pinkish Wall, Somalia
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Woman in Store Window, Smiling, Somalia
Woman in Store Window, Smiling, Somalia
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Young Woman Closeup, Magenta, Purple Background, Somalia
Young Woman Closeup, Magenta, Purple Background, Somalia
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Children and Adults with Bin of Fruit, Somalia
Children and Adults with Bin of Fruit, Somalia
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Woman, Hands Clasped, Against Tree, Somalia
Woman, Hands Clasped, Against Tree, Somalia
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Woman with Head Wrap in Mouth, Somalia
Woman with Head Wrap in Mouth, Somalia
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Two Kids in Door Frame, Green Background, Somalia
Two Kids in Door Frame, Green Background, Somalia
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Young Boy in Blue and Red Against Pinkish Background, Somalia
Young Boy in Blue and Red Against Pinkish Background, Somalia
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Young Woman in Green and White Stripes, Somalia
Young Woman in Green and White Stripes, Somalia
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Young Boy in Green, Missing Teeth, Somalia
Young Boy in Green, Missing Teeth, Somalia
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Children in Class, Koran Wooden Boards, Somalia
Children in Class, Koran Wooden Boards, Somalia
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Two Young Men Posing, One with Arm on Shoulder, Somalia
Two Young Men Posing, One with Arm on Shoulder, Somalia
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Young Woman Portrait, Green and Red Dress, Somalia
Young Woman Portrait, Green and Red Dress, Somalia
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Class with Children, Wooden Koran Boards, Somalia
Class with Children, Wooden Koran Boards, Somalia
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Crowd of Women in Stands, Somalia
Crowd of Women in Stands, Somalia
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Crowd of Men in Stands, Somalia
Crowd of Men in Stands, Somalia
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Man in Red Mocking Salute, Somalia
Man in Red Mocking Salute, Somalia
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Street, Mom and Child, Walking, Somalia
Street, Mom and Child, Walking, Somalia
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Man's Head on Right, Large, Somalia
Man's Head on Right, Large, Somalia
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Crowd on Grass with Flags, Somalia
Crowd on Grass with Flags, Somalia
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Woman Staring in Blue Dress, Somalia
Woman Staring in Blue Dress, Somalia
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Profile of Woman with Hoop Earring, Somalia
Profile of Woman with Hoop Earring, Somalia
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Crowd at Soccer Game, Men and Women, Somalia
Crowd at Soccer Game, Men and Women, Somalia
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Young Child with Basket, Somalia
Young Child with Basket, Somalia
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Three Women, One with Hand to Face, Somalia
Three Women, One with Hand to Face, Somalia
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Blurred Women Dancing, Somalia
Blurred Women Dancing, Somalia
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Bald Man Against Side of House, Somalia
Bald Man Against Side of House, Somalia
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Two Women Walking in Desert
Two Women Walking in Desert
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Young Man Against Green Wooden Wall, Somalia
Young Man Against Green Wooden Wall, Somalia
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Man with Plaid Staring at Me
Man with Plaid Staring at Me
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Man with Head Down, Smiling, Somalia
Man with Head Down, Smiling, Somalia
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Young Boy in Banana Plants, Somalia
Young Boy in Banana Plants, Somalia
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People at Goat Market
People at Goat Market
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Back Alley, One Man Crouching, One Gesturing
Back Alley, One Man Crouching, One Gesturing
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Crowd of Women and Children
Crowd of Women and Children
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Woman in Forest Seen Through Green
Woman in Forest Seen Through Green
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Well Dressed Eastern Audience at Soccer Game, Somalia
Well Dressed Eastern Audience at Soccer Game, Somalia
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Three Men in Front of Fence, Somalia
Three Men in Front of Fence, Somalia
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Shacks in Desert, Somalia
Shacks in Desert, Somalia
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Kids, Ships, Rocks, Waves, Xamar Wein, Somalia
Kids, Ships, Rocks, Waves, Xamar Wein, Somalia
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Girl with Basket, Somalia
Girl with Basket, Somalia
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Kid Laughing, Closeup, Somalia
Kid Laughing, Closeup, Somalia
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